Bicycling program enjoyable even for 'wimps'

Can a relatively fit person -- but by no means an avid bicyclist -- enjoy a bicycling tour?

The answer is yes, I found on a recent tour of the Provence region of France organized by Backroads, a Berkeley, Calif.-based biking and hiking specialist.

Yes, you can enjoy the tour without participating in the most strenuous bicycling, even if it may mean feeling a bit left out and a bit like a wimp as the rest of the tour members triumphantly complete 40- and 60-mile loops.

On my tour, the majority of the 20 participants were clearly athletic types, and my admiration for them grew as the trip progressed. Many of the strongest and most enthusiastic were in their early 50s, a full decade older than me.

I spent several hours watching them climb the beautiful hills of Provence from the cozy comfort of a Backroads van, with a basket of fresh fruit and snacks by my side as the tour leader and I "supported" the riders.

To backtrack, or rather, backpedal, a bit: I had prepared for the trip knowing that a certain level of fitness was required.

I own a bicycle and ride occasionally. But for the most part, my fitness routine consists of a weekly visit to the gym, with an hour split between a stationary bike and some weight lifting, and five-day-a-week, 45-minute "power" walks.

Backroads recommended that "by the time the trip starts, you should feel comfortable riding at least 25 miles a day and still have strength and enthusiasm to ride again the next day." That's also the advice they give travel agents to qualify clients for the trip.

In the six weeks prior to my departure, I boosted my visits to the gym to two or three times a week, spending at least an hour on the stationary bike and 20 minutes on the step machine. On other days, I extended my "power walks" to an hour and tackled steeper hills.

A Backroads "guest services coordinator" called before the trip to make sure I was prepared. I told her I was working on it and was confident I could do 25 miles a day.

But when I met our group on the morning of the first bike outing -- outside the Chateau de Rochegude, a lovely medieval castle hotel that is part of the Relais & Chateaux group -- I wasn't so sure.

This was definitely an experienced bunch of bikers; they were dressed in smart outfits and some had brought their own toe clips and bike seats.

There was no fumbling with the 21-speed bikes, although most had ignored the orientation to the bikes while I listened carefully.

Soon, many had ridden off, clearly excited by the prospect of riding. I followed, less certain, but was soon feeling exhilarated.

As I navigated the small, untrafficked roads through acres of vineyards and quiet villages, I kept pace with a couple of people who were, like me, riding slower than the group.

Each day followed a similar pattern, with our cheerful and energetic leaders, Chelsea Gutmann and Danielle Hoogland, giving a morning "route rap" describing the different options: short routes of 14 to 30 miles depending on how hilly the terrain; a basic option of 30 to 50 miles, and long rides of more than 50 miles.

Despite being tempted to try the longer rides, my legs and buttocks protested with their soreness. Each day, I usually stopped biking after lunch with the short version completed.

It was typically just three or four of us who did this, and usually it was also because we enjoyed our lunch and glass of wine too much to want to move much afterwards (I noticed the more avid bikers didn't drink much and ate lightly).

Did I enjoy myself as a "wimp" bicycling with the solid-thighed, spandex-clad crowd? Yes, but then I'm not a highly driven person and don't feel left out by not being part of the group experience at every moment.

I could see people with different natures being frustrated and unhappy if they were unable to keep up with the majority of the group.

The differences became apparent one day when most of the group climbed a six-mile uphill that is part of the legendary Tour de France through rain and chilly temperatures.

Three of us in the support van had ridden that morning, before the rain started, through the olive groves and vineyards of Cotes du Rhone country, stopping in a cafe where the players of boules -- the traditional Provencal game similar to bocce -- to take a caffe latte break.

After lunch of roast chicken, salad and pizza with glasses of wine, it turned dark, chilly and rainy. We were amazed at the bikers' determination as we rode in heated comfort in the van, occasionally opening windows to feed the riders snacks and Gatorade-type drinks and to offer encouragement.

The van sped ahead and dropped us off at the plush hotel Les Bories, outside the cliff-side town of Gordes, giving us time to relax by the indoor pool at the spa and take a walk around Gordes.

I poked around narrow alleyways and churches that seemed to hang in midair in the middle of the rocky mountain. I found a little tea shop decorated with brightly colored Provencal fabrics; there I sipped a hot chocolate and watched the rain drench the countryside that Peter Mayle made famous in his books on Provence.

The bikers arrived shortly before dinner -- wet to the bone, teeth chattering and comparing notes from their rides.

We "van wimps" argued that we had had a great time that day, incredulous that anyone would have enjoyed that fide. But the bikers, faces flushed with the exhilaration, insisted they wouldn't have had it any other way.

Sounds like we both found happiness, in different ways, on the same tour.

Bicycle Art

Bicycle Posters

Bike Shop

Bicycles and Biking Gear

Bicycle Built for Two